Does Coleman Digital Rv Thermostat Draw Current

Topic: Thermostat for coleman furnace

Posted By: rec1 on 10/02/03 05:15pm I have an older model colman furnace model 4316. It has a 12 volt power supply and supplies 12volts to the thermostat. It is rated at three.2 amps with a anticipator setting at.3amp This is according the manuel. The coleman thermostat does not work. I have, at the suggest of an rv dealer,replaced it with a White-Rodgers thermostat 1C20 Heating only. The furnace works ok it the wires are tied together. Upon setting the new furnace thermostat to call for rut the furnace kicks on but the coil glows cerise. If I immune it to go on information technology would burn the thermostat. The furnace is a 79 and thermostats are not bachelor for that year. Anyone have any ideas?

Posted By: Ron Schulz on 10/02/03 06:16pm What coil glows ruddy? Is your model a glow-bar ignition? Is the new T'stat rated for a 24v. abode organisation? Delight reply back and I'll run across if I can requite you more info..

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Posted By: Dusty R on 10/02/03 07:01pm According to ane of my catalogs the 1C20-101 heat anticipation range is 0.15 to 1.2
I think there are some programable t-stats that use their own bombardment power to operate, non furnace ability, and but open and close the contactes to turn the furnace, burner, on and off.
Check with some HVAC dealers, you should be able to notice a older style t-stat that will piece of work.
Dusty R.

Posted By: travjen on 10/02/03 08:26pm I accept a suburban furnace. I went to get it ready for the weekend and discovered the furnace wouldn't piece of work. It wouldn't even kick the blower on. I figured the thermostat was shot. I too went and got a White-Rodgers estrus simply unit and installed it. When I first turned it on, null happened then I checked the wire connections at the furnace. They all looked fine but after I put the wire screws back on, the furnace kicked on and ran for a while. Unfortunately it quit running well earlier the trailer got up to the temperature called for. I messed effectually with the thermostat some more and rechecked the wires at the furnace. Later on flipping the thermostat back and forth a couple times, the inside of the thermostat started to glow for a 2nd likewise. Did that twice. I had no clue what was going on. But after seeing your post, I wonder if y'all're talking the same kind of glow. I have non been successful at getting the furnace to run since. I had a new board put in last twelvemonth so I uncertainty if that has anything to practice with information technology. Did y'all resolve your trouble? and does anyone know what mine might exist?

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Posted Past: NGRRFan on 10/02/03 09:26pm I'k thinking that at that place is a ringlet in the stat that gets its voltage from the furnace. Somehow the coil isn't capable of taking the 12 volts being supplied and thus is glowing ruddy.

Is this what is happening? The curl in the stat is what is glowing?

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Posted By: rec1 on ten/03/03 04:30am Yes the coil in the thermostat glows. The get-go themostat burned out as a result of the glow. The voltage supplied to the thermostat is 12 volts from the converter.

Posted Past: rec1 on 10/03/03 04:40am The switch rating is 24VAC(30VAC max. Heating 0.15 to 1.2 amps the switch activity if Snap Activeness Anticipator setting adjustable from 0.15 to one.2 amp. Manufacturing plant recommeds set a .3 Voltage at the wires to the thermo is showing 13.5 without load.

Posted By: rec1 on 10/03/03 04:43am Do you mean the thermostat operates from batterys such every bit 2 1.5 volt batterys? Hmm that would seem to work equally long as those batteries would tend to move the thermostat to an operating range. Do you take any make names?

Posted Past: LAdams on 10/03/03 06:32am Had that same problem on an older KIT Road Ranger TT with an Atwood furnace...

The culprit eventually turned out to be a bad time filibuster relay on the furnace... I had installed a new thermostat because the anticipator element was burned through on the sometime one... I installed a new stat and when I turned the rut on, a shower of sparks came down on my head every bit the anticipator on the new stat burned through... Farther investigation revealed that the time delay relay was wired incorrectly, nonetheless a bad relay (sticking or welded contact) could do the same thing...

Later on you repair that problem, you lot might consider replacing the thermostat with a Hunter digital... Expect here for the commodity...

Best Regards,
Les

* This mail service was edited 10/03/03 06:39am by LAdams *

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Posted By: hohenwald48 on 10/03/03 07:58am If the thermostat is designed to operate on 24 volts and you lot are using it on a 12 volt system you are causing the heat anticipator coil to draw twice every bit much current as information technology should. Ohms law states that as voltage goes down, current goes upwards provided the resistance (of the coil) stays the same (which it does).

This increased current catamenia causes the whorl to generate twice every bit much estrus every bit information technology should and that is the red glow you come across. I'm sure it will also cause the coil to burn out in short club.

I agree with the proffer of using a Hunter digital thermostat (available from Wal-Mart) equally it provides its own heat anticipation circuit from its internal battery and does not rely on a "heated resistor" for oestrus apprehension. Additionally, the Hunter provides pure contact closure functioning.

Do a search and yous should find detailed description of how to install. Someone on this forum did a fine job of documentating the Hunter installation information.

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Posted Past: travjen on 10/05/03 11:28am I went to Wal-Mart to get the hunter digital but they were out of stock and so I went to Home Depot and got a RiteTemp. I didn't have any success at getting that to work either. I had a buddy of mine take a look at it also. He found some wires under the furnace that were pinched under the right manus corner. He stock-still that and nosotros tried all three thermostats again. The original, the White-Rodgers and the RiteTemp Digital. When hooking up the RiteTemp, I only used the white wire as it had two AA batteries of it's ain for ability. Of class on the other two stats, I used both wires. The furnace is still not even kick on the blower. We even tried hooking upwards all three stats at the furnace wires directly to eliminate the posibility of a bankrupt wire between the furnace and the stat at information technology'south original location across the camper. Peradventure the relay is shot?? or does anyone have any other ideas? I'm non a real techy and perchance I'm missing something that is quite obvious to someone else. My previous post explains the other details I started out with.

Posted Past: rec1 on 10/07/03 05:10pm To all who replied to my mail apropos my furnace thermostat. Thanks to all. I replaced the thermmostat with a Hunter 42995 B purchased from Walmarts Price 20 dollars. Easy to install and easy to program. A tough product to find but I learned from a techie at Hunter that the 42999B also carried by Walmart will piece of work as well. Thanks over again to all. Bob

Posted By: Mitchem on 11/05/03 11:00am my furnace will not run if thermostat wires are hooked upwardly,I take the wires loose at the furnace and connect them straight the furnace will piece of work,If thermostat wires are hooked up,blower volition come merely furnace will not low-cal,can anyone tell me what is going on?I believe it is the thermostat just why does fan come up on and not light but volition calorie-free if wires to thermostat are jumped.